Monday, September 19, 2011
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Bali station wagon. We've also seen 10 year old sitting asleep on the front, slumped against his dad, with mum and toddler squeezed into the back. And a 4 year old standing on his dads knees, driving himself along some pretty busy roads. Girls in skirts get lifts sitting side-saddle, and texting while driving is standard practice.
Monday, September 12, 2011
Mastering the rules of the road here took a little time, but was well worth it - we had our own go-anywhere transport for about R150 per day, fuel included. Mastering the roadmaps not so successful. The lonelyplanet offerings are best described as "illustrative", the official roadmaps disagree as much as not, the both reduced us to a mixture of navigation by altitude, road size and condition, and sign language with locals.
Aas greeted us with quietness, lava beaches, perfect grilled tuna, and spectacularly colourful reef.
Before we realised it time had jostled us on to Munduk, in the mountains, surrounded by cinnamon, coffee and cacao, scattered amongst marigolds, citrus, hydrangea and vanilla. Bali highlands are steep, and the villages cling to ancient (and not so ancient) ridges stretching down from the semi-active volcanoes that stand astride the centre of the island.
Our route took us around the coast, through spectacular winding roads in the highlands, fascinating temples and village life, and eventually back down to the reef, this time offshore in the Bali National Park where we dropped off 40m coral walls, grinning like mad water rats.