If you eat the crystals, make sure they're organic

Well, Ubud may have been the seat of ancient Balinese kings and it is still the cultural capital of a remarkable society. But the hippies are taking over.

Not the farm fresh flower children who took their cues from Tolkien in the first modern mass experimentation of living like hobbits.

These ones have money baby.

It's the millionaire Noordhoekers and Kalk Baaiers who eat well, dress for all occasions, look fabulous, and love their yoga. Elizabeth Gilbert singles, clutching that book, and seeking their own personal Katut. Or maybe their own Philippe?

There are Paul Smith and Polo boutiques, and more designer yoga outlets than the whole of Cape Town. Im sure if we keep looking it's only a matter of time before we find the Fendi and Balenciaga.

And squitched in-between the upmarket guest houses, temples and tour companies, there are a few absolutely fabulous organic world-food cafés. Just our thing.

And yet amidst this all the Balinese lifestyle endures, rich and authentic.

Gamelan rocks us to sleep, while we wake to watch early morning stretch itself in the thousand year old wheatgrass green paddies.

Family compounds have been supplemented with beautiful guest accommodation, but the exquisite shrines still hold pride of place in the home, and rival the doorways and entrances for higher grade sculpture.

Ganesh is a welcome sight wherever you stay, adorned with frangipani flowers and blessed with the daily offerings.

We were going to stay two days, then 6. Now 8 is looking more likely.

Ok, off to our first yoga class. . . .

ps. Elizabeth Gilbert gives an absolutely fantastic presentation on TED. Check it out.